Gucci Men’s Fall 2023

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From the first outfit — a plain pair of tan trousers with a T-shirt — it was clear Gucci is heading in a new direction and the guessing game was over. Before the show, many observers were curious about the collection Gucci would present on Friday. This was the first time that Alessandro Michele wasn’t involved. The house would start from scratch? It would be surprising if the house had a new look, as it did eight years ago when the former creative director assumed the reins. The answer was no to the second question. However, there were very few signs that he had been in charge.

More information from WWD

This archive-driven lineup, prepared by the in-house staff, leaned heavily on the designers who came before him, including Tom Ford and Frida Giannini. Cue the crystal-embossed GG denim pants and the Piston Lock detail originally created by Ford or the sleek blazers in a pastel palette, horsebit loafers and roomy Jackie bags that harked back to Giannini’s jet-set days. A taupe ruffled chiffon blouse, checkered wool skirts with front slits or the fluffy Princetown slippers, as well as the sparkly jacket embroidered with sequined scallops were at least reminiscent of Michele’s days.

There were also references in the press notes Gucci’s archives, from the storied bamboo bag to the crystal GG in a lacquered interpretation of the brand’s coated monogram canvas from the 1970s, placed for example on round-toed soft ankle boots.

The notes also underscored that the design team, described as longtime members of the Gucci house and who did not come out at the end of the show, explored the concept of “improvisation,” as “an act of collaboration” and as “a constructive tool for creation” that requires finely tuned skills and knowledge. Self-expression and individualism — issues dear to Michele — were also cited as foundations of the “collection focused on the archetypes of the classic gentleman’s wardrobe.” This was exemplified by suits with detachable elements which can transformed into sleeveless jackets and shorts.

The all-male models walked on beige carpeting around a spherical stage to a live performance by Marc Ribot’s Ceramic Dog, playing for guests who included Idris Elba; South Korean singer and actor Kai; Percy Hynes White, and Nick Cave, among others.

A contrast was made with slim-fitting, slim-fitting trousers, jackets and coats. The motorcycling garments that honoured Gucci’s archival pieces of the early 2000s, which were either floor-length sophisticated or sleek trenches, are a puzzlement.

There is no doubt the team played up Gucci’s core accessories business, with a plethora of covetable bags, often in supersized versions, or the soft, quilted boots.

Ahead of the show, WWD asked buyers what they would expect from the new Gucci, and most responded hoping for a balance between commercial and fantasy pieces — after all, this is a business with sales close to 10 billion euros — but excitement and surprise were also top of mind, as fashion feeds itself on novelty.

Commercially, those prayers were answered, the collection was mainly grounded and safe — fitting with a transitional period. While Kering chairman and chief executive officer François-Henri Pinault told WWD ahead of the show that Gucci president and CEO Marco Bizzarri is staying put to lead the brand in the post-Alessandro Michele period, here’s to hoping he will work his magic once again and appoint a strong creative director to ensure Gucci will succeed in bringing that excitement retailers and customers alike are looking for.

Launch Gallery Gucci Men’s Fall 2023

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