Dior Women’s Pre-fall RTW
A black-and-white photo from the Christian Dior archives shows a slim, corseted gown from the founder’s fall 1954 couture collection, its strict silhouette softened with a sari-style drape of fabric over one shoulder.
Another photo depicts models lined up on the boarding stairs of an Air India jetliner, each wearing a floral “welcome” garland. Dior’s second successor Marc Bohan had sent his spring 1962 couture collection to Mumbai and Delhi for charity shows, thus continuing a dialog with the Asian nation.
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A recent color photo depicts Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s current artistic director of women’s collections, wearing a similar garland and smiling out from the center of a group shot with the female artisans at the Chanakya embroidery workshop in Mumbai.
Chiuri has worked for three decades with Indian textile artisans. Her pre-fall collection, which is filled with vibrant colors, bold prints, and intricate embroideries, was inspired by her experience with them.
There’s also a pair of velvet flip-flops in a deep purple that have bestseller written all over them.
Chiuri’s collection is captivating. She translates a rich, intricate backstory into a collection that can be worn by all ages. The collection includes loose shirts, pareo-style skirts and eye-catching opera jackets shimmering with metallic or bullion embroidery.
Chiuri, during a Paris preview, drew parallels between Italy and Paris. IndiaEach region has its own unique craft traditions, which have contributed to fashion both at home and abroad. “I want to celebrate this friendship, this sisterhood,” she said, also trumpeting India’s importance in the fashion system and its strong and unique culture of national dress.
Chiuri blended Dior’s codes and India’s riches beautifully: giving a slim shape and Nehru-style collar to a Bar jacket; populating toile de Jouy prints with lucky animals including elephants, peacocks and monkeys, and streamlined versions of salwar kameez in zesty colors and busy carpet prints.
“I transferred these details in something that is more wearable for today,” she said, citing a mission to bring even more functionality, versatility and wearability to her designs for Dior. “This is very important today in my point of view on fashion.”
One example is this: She took a 1948 Dior jacket with a flaring back, which was photographed by Horst, and added a belt to control the volume. She executed the garment in a sturdy Japanese cotton that’s suitable for everyday wear, and added a quilted lining that can be buttoned in or out.
“The wardrobe is something that you build,” she said. “Women like me want a coat that you can use for more than one season.
“I think that it’s very important to have a vision for a brand and maintain a language where you become recognizable,” she continued. “Also because what I like doesn’t change each season.”
Launch Gallery Dior Pre-Fall 2023 Preview