Is your skin breaking out? Here are some ways to tell the difference

This is the best way to learn before you resort to extreme measures.

If you’ve introduced a new product into your skincare routine recently, a breakout is the last thing you want to see. Chances are you’ll write the product off immediately and stash it away, never to see your face again. But don’t panic! Although it’s true that a new product might just be incompatible with your skin, your skin might actually be purging—and that’s actually a good thing.

How can you tell if your skin is tearing out or shedding? We spoke to dermatologists about how to identify the problem and what you can do in each case.

What is skin purging and how can it help?

Whether you’ve heard of it or not, skin purging is incredibly common. Skin purging is simply the reaction of skin to certain ingredients. The top layer of your skin is likely to be removed by a chemical exfoliant. This can cause irritation or blockages, and potentially lead to breakouts.

“When patients start a new active ingredient for acne, things can get worse before they get better,” says Caren Campbell, MD, board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “This is a known side effect for some patients of topical or oral retinoids like tretinoin (Retin-A) or isotretinoin (Accutane).”

Purging, while it’s not something that anyone likes to see, is actually a very good sign. This means that your topical or oral medication is working and your skin is clearing out any bacteria and debris that may have been causing your breakouts.

“Topical retinoids enhance cell turnover and act like pipe cleaners for your pores. In the process, they clear out blockages much more rapidly,” says Joshua Zeichner, MD, board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “Once you remove what’s blocking the pore and continue to use the topical retinoid, you can prevent blockages from developing in the future.”

What are breakouts?

You also have the classic breakouts that come in many forms. Papules, cysts (bumps), pupules (pus-filled bumps), or “whiteheads” can all be experienced. comedones Oder “blackheads”.

As you’re probably well aware, breakouts are not a good thing. “Acne is inflammation that develops around your follicles. Individuals with acne produce high levels of oil and it gets trapped underneath sticky cells that block the pores,” says Dr. Zeichner.

Hormones, stress, diet, and hormones are all common causes of acne breakouts. These trigger an inflammation response deep inside your pores that creates the ideal environment for bacteria to thrive.

What does skin purging entail?

Unfortunately, skin purging can often look very similar to inflammatory acne (i.e. pustules, blackheads/whiteheads, and cysts).

The good news is that, despite looking very similar, it’s easy to tell the difference between skin purging or a regular breakout.

“Purging tends to be much more quick and severe and almost always after the introduction of a new product or medication,” says Dhaval G. Bhanusali, MD, board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “That said, they are transient unlike traditional breakouts, which may need long-term intervention to improve.”

The same active ingredients that cause skin purging, such as retinols and alpha hydroxy acids and acne-fighting ingredients such as salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, are often responsible for skin irritations. If your skin is breaking out after using something like a hydrating moisturizer, there’s a greater chance that you have a traditional breakout on your hands.

In short, look back at the routine and habits you have been following for the past few days. Ask yourself if you’ve tried any new skincare products, medications, or have changed your diet or sleep schedule. This will help you identify any skin changes that may be occurring.

How long does skin purging take?

According to dermatologists, a skin purge can last anywhere from two to three to four weeks. Generally speaking, your skin’s temper tantrum should subside within four to six weeks of starting a new skincare regimen. If your skin is prone to recurring breakouts for more than four to six weeks after you have started a new skincare regimen, it could be a sign that the product isn’t working or is actually making matters worse.

How do you treat skin inflammation?

You can take comfort knowing that your treatment works and your skin will not become more sensitive. It’s best to be patient and wait for your skin to finish its cycle (or at least 4-6 weeks so you can help identify the issue). If the purging is too uncomfortable, talk to your dermatologist on what to expect and how to lessen the product’s effects until your skin regulates. If you’re using a topical, consider cutting back on the amount or frequency in which you’re using it. For example, you could reduce your use of retinol to once a week and gradually increase it to two or three times a weeks. Carmen Castilla, MD, board-certified dermatologist in New York City, adds that in both cases (skin purging and breaking out), it’s important to support your skin barrier by using a gentle moisturizer.

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